This topic has 7 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 5 months ago by ram5ey.

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  • #14778
     KAbS
    • Experience: 20+ years
    • Scenic Status: Part Time Freelance

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      Member Member

    Traditional scenic painter here, experienced in rosco products and good old latex/vinyl paint… Embarking on an acrylic mural on masonry with Nova color… Know that it can only be thinned with water up to 10%, ordering mediums and wondering about thickness and consistency and if I can make it thin enough to brush on with large 7″ scenic brushes I use for backdrops and floors… If anyone has experience or paint comparisons they want to share about Nova, I’d be grateful. – cheers!

    #15312
     Lili Lennox
    Admin
    • Experience: 15-20 years
    • Scenic Status: Full Time Freelance

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    Use Novas, love novas. Yes, you’ll be able to get it thin enough with their mediums. Another option is adding Future floor finish- it’s an acrylic floor polish that’s slightly more viscous than water, but won’t cut your binding. It’s also cheap.

    The texture of the paint itself is much creamier than latex, you’ll find it moves around pretty easily.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #15313
     ram5ey
    • Experience: 10-15 years
    • Scenic Status: Full Time Regular

    This came up right when I needed it! I’m also doing an exterior mural on some kind of masonry. I’ve been looking at using Novas as well.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #15314
     Batul Rizvi
    • Experience: 10-15 years
    • Scenic Status: Other

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      Member Member

    I was a little nervous using Nova color to begin with but ended up loving it – especially their metallics! I think the viscosity is where it differs the most from Rosco. I do remember sealing a floor over Nova color paint with a water based polyurethane clear coat and it was pretty durable without dulling the saturation.

    #15315
     ram5ey
    • Experience: 10-15 years
    • Scenic Status: Full Time Regular

    lilips wrote:

    Use Novas, love novas. Yes, you’ll be able to get it thin enough with their mediums. Another option is adding Future floor finish- it’s an acrylic floor polish that’s slightly more viscous than water, but won’t cut your binding. It’s also cheap.

    The texture of the paint itself is much creamier than latex, you’ll find it moves around pretty easily.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Does this alter the sheen much?

    #15316
     Lili Lennox
    Admin
    • Experience: 15-20 years
    • Scenic Status: Full Time Freelance

    • Member
      Member Member

    ram5ey wrote:

    lilips wrote:

    Use Novas, love novas. Yes, you’ll be able to get it thin enough with their mediums. Another option is adding Future floor finish- it’s an acrylic floor polish that’s slightly more viscous than water, but won’t cut your binding. It’s also cheap.

    The texture of the paint itself is much creamier than latex, you’ll find it moves around pretty easily.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Does this alter the sheen much?

    My recollection is that is does not change the sheen.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

    #15317
     KAbS
    • Experience: 20+ years
    • Scenic Status: Part Time Freelance

    • Member
      Member Member

    After having completed my mural project on masonry, I have some reviews of Nova Color

    The colors are brilliant and the adhesion is good. I purchased quantities of their extender called Novaplex. This, when added to the paint, acted as a glaze and did not diminish the binding quality of the paint. Adding water to the paint will significantly reduce it’s binding strength, and when making something ‘permanent’ like a mural, the less water you use, the better.

    The paint is more plastic than scenic paint and you will not get matte finish, even with the matte medium.

    The spreadability is good and very good for blending, but still dries relatively fast. If you intend to do any scumbling or brushwork, I recommend adding some of the retarder medium.

    I sealed my project with the Novaplex, in addition to adding to the paint when I wanted to control the viscosity. The paint comes out of the jar like a paste and I found it helpful to thin it with the Novaplex to get it to the desired thickness to emulate scenic paints and/or latex. This did not seem to diminish the opacity significantly. The paint has a considerable amount of pigment suspended in the binder, but it is not oversaturated as SuperSat, (which uses a less-plastic binder and is designed for the particles to float on top, thus creating a non-reflective matte finish) This finish is not possible with Novaplex, as the binder is acrylic and surrounds all of the pigment particles, thus proving more durable, a little shinier, and in some instances – deeper and darker finish.

    You can trust the color palette of nova color and I recommend using their gesso on masonry after priming for a very opaque, bright, and semi-absorbing white.

    The coverage is good, if not better than their documentation says. Their instructions and documentation are very accurate and they know what they are talking about. This is an extremely good product for outdoor murals and probably very worth having in a prop shop and for use on difficult to paint surfaces such as foam and metal.

    #15318
     ram5ey
    • Experience: 10-15 years
    • Scenic Status: Full Time Regular

    Yes I totally agree. I went about it a little different and thinned with just a little future floor finish. (Which also smells quite nice).

    I was lucky enough to work with a prepped surface and felt the adhesion was excellent. The only issues that I had to learn my way around were how transparent some of the colors are and I felt cleaning brushes took easily twice as much time.

    My mural had a whole myriad of challenges from traffic to weather (it started gettin too cold to paint near the end), but I’m so glad I found out about the Novas. Thanks to everyone on here.

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