Drop Opaquing recipes

[Anonymous]

What do you all use for opaquing areas of a muslin drop?

I was taught to just do a double coat of thick paint, and check for pinholes, but lately at Infinite we’re using a thin-ish Sherwin Williams elastomeric called Loxon, and loving it. It usually covers in one coat. It’s flexible, tintable, mixes well with off-broadway paints, and comes in white and black 5-gallons off the shelf for about $165. We sometimes tint it in the store, or do it in the shop with Caltints or similar.

Here’s a photo of a drop we opaqued with tinted gray Loxon, leaving the windows translucent.

(worth noting: Sherwin also sells an elasto called Conflex, which is thicker and does not work well for opaquing. Bleeds through, leaves brush marks, and sticks to the floor. Ugh. Won’t make that mistake again.)

[Anonymous]

The mix we’ve been using at Cobalt Studios is 1 part Acrylink (not sure of spelling) to 4 parts Firetect FirePoof. It’s really easily spreadable, pretty good coverage (although sometimes you might need a second coat or a spot treatment), and nicely elastic. It’s so much nicer to use than our old mixes, and lighter weight, and it doesn’t need a dusting of baby powder, it dries non-sticky!!

[mabisbee]

A few years ago for an Opera in AZ we did a HUGE drop for Faust with painted text where the text was translucent but the rest was opaque so the words would glow. We painted front and back painted the mus and it worked out quite nicely. Paint was slightly thinned so it would stick to the fibers of the fabric better and had better fluidity.

[mabisbee]

oops, posted too soon!

I wanted to say, I love those solutions so much more considering the time it takes to paint both sides!

[abernathysj]

Valeriepaints wrote:

lately at Infinite we’re using a thin-ish Sherwin Williams elastomeric called Loxon, and loving it.

hey Val, I’m about to paint some fabric of the tulle/scrim/mesh variety with opaque lines meant to look like steel framing. right now the plan is to use Jaxsan because that’s what we have already, but I thought I should look into elastomeric options with less texture. do you think Loxon would be worth testing on a more mesh-y fabric, maybe with plastic underneath? or is it too thin?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Batul Rizvi]

Valeriepaints wrote:

What do you all use for opaquing areas of a muslin drop?

I was taught to just do a double coat of thick paint, and check for pinholes, but lately at Infinite we’re using a thin-ish Sherwin Williams elastomeric called Loxon, and loving it. It usually covers in one coat. It’s flexible, tintable, mixes well with off-broadway paints, and comes in white and black 5-gallons off the shelf for about $165. We sometimes tint it in the store, or do it in the shop with Caltints or similar.

Here’s a photo of a drop we opaqued with tinted gray Loxon, leaving the windows translucent.

(worth noting: Sherwin also sells an elasto called Conflex, which is thicker and does not work well for opaquing. Bleeds through, leaves brush marks, and sticks to the floor. Ugh. Won’t make that mistake again.)

Hey Val, what type of Loxon do you all use to opaque drops? Sherwin carries Block Protector, Masonry Primer, and a whole slew of Loxon products.

Also, do you use it on the rear or front (as a base coat) if you’re just worried about light leak? (Or does it matter?)

Thanks!!

[Author]

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