This topic has 5 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 8 months ago by Former Member Content Archive.

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  • #14854

    Hey all! A resource question here: a designer I’m working with changed the basic design of a set I’m about to paint from a faux-finish plank floor to a faux-finish floor that incorporates parquet and a fairly ornate inlaid wood design. I’ve already read a couple of books (including the Art of Faux, and, of course, thumbing through Surfaces) on it and am starting with some exercises to give myself a technique refresher…been awhile since I did a project like this and this will be the first time I’m tackling a project like this independently….

    But anyway: do you have any favorite books on complicated faux wood treatments? youtube tutorials? practice exercises? I could use a little refresher. I appreciate the advice!

    #15610
     ram5ey
    • Experience: 10-15 years
    • Scenic Status: Full Time Regular

    I hope Gion Defrancesco sees this. I think he had an article in the Painters Journal about parquet. I believe he started with a stamp.

    Wish I could lend more help , but I’ll be watching on this one.

    #15611
     Nixpaints
    • Experience: 20+ years
    • Scenic Status: Full Time Regular

    • Member
      Member Member

    It sounds like a job that will SIGNIFICANTLY increase your hours on that project. The first thing I would do is to take the two renderings to my production manager and explain to her/him the change in design and the projected amount of hours it’ll now take to accomplish and see if it’s within the show budget to do the work.

    That’s a huge change that the designer made after the design was accepted.

    Other than that, if you proceed with the work, it sounds like a crap load of layout and taping. You may want to see if the carpenters can get involved and create another floor surface for you, pre-cut to the designer’s general design to which you can paint it separately and then they pin it down to the existing stage floor. That sounds like a freaking huge job. If you post photos of the renderings, it’ll help us give any further guidance.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #15612
     AHOGAN
    • Experience: 20+ years
    • Scenic Status: Full Time Regular

    • Member
      Member Member

    We have been working on a parquet floor.

    -I asked the designer to work the pattern out so that it works on MDFsheets so the pattern is worked to that stupid 4’1”X 8’1” measurement that MDFcomes in.

    -we made a pounce for the pattern one pounce for every mirror image version of the pattern clearly marked.

    -we primed the floor pieces and did a general non directional base coat

    -we worked with a few floor pieces at a time on saw horses. We pounced the pattern on the MDF, sharpid the lines. I decided to simplify the wood into Light, Medium And dark “inlay” pieces and marked L, M, D on each parquet piece with charcoal.

    -masked off every other parquet piece and did a wood grain technique.

    – every “inlay” piecethat was masked got a light glaze. The medium and dark pieces got another glaze on top of the light glaze, and the dark got a dark glaze.

    -we pulled the tape and masked out the other “inlay” Pieces and repeat the process.

    Make sure the designer gives you all the info you need to be CLEAR about how to lay out the pattern

    It is your right and responsibility to ask the designer to simplify if it is too much !

    I will see if I can post some photos-

    Abb

    PCPA

    #15613

    I’m startin’ it–wish me luck!

    (the edge of the circle is a donut that encircles this central turntable, which is why it only goes to the diamonds on the outer rim)

    #15614

    I have had success painting wood grain on large sheets of paper and then gluing them into the pattern. In your case, I would paint the large dark circle first and faux it. then tape off and do the lighter ring the same way. Then I would cut the other colored shapes from my paper “decal” sheet and glue them in place trimming for accuracy as I go. Last step is many protective coats of polyurethane.

    It can also be handy to fly a projector above the design.

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